Every trip we take, we try to pick one out-of-the-way destination to escape to for a few days, to get away from the major tourist sites and settle in where life is a little slower. In Scotland, that was the island is Islay.

If you’re a scotch fan, then you’ve likely heard of Ardbeg, Lagavulin, and Laphroaig, three of the largest distilleries in Islay. In total, this tiny island is home to 9 distilleries, with more scheduled to open soon.  It’s also home to stunning seaside terrain, lush rolling hills, and some of the nicest people we’ve ever met.

Islay is truly one of Scotland’s hidden gems. If you’re in the region touring distilleries (like we were), it’s a must-do.

Getting there 

There are two ways to get it Islay – plane or ferry.

Flights depart and return to Glasgow twice daily via Loganair, landing at a tiny airport between Bowmore and Port Ellen. Select times of year you can also fly nonstop from Edinburgh. The flights are typically $130-160 each way, however with advanced booking, you can find options as low as $87 USD.

The ferry comes from Kennacraig to either Port Askaig or Port Ellen, pending the time of day. Departures similarly go out of both ports to Kennacraig.  Seasonally, you can also snag a ferry out of Oban via Colonsay. Ferry tickets are $83 for a vehicle, plus $17 per adult round trip (around $117 USD total).

We opted for the ferry because we already had a rental car and were concerned about weather conditions in the winter which tend to ground flights more often than disrupting the ferry. We had a minor weather issue which rerouted our ferry from Port Ellen to Port Askaig, but beyond adding 20 min onto our drive once arrived on Islay, it didn’t disrupt our trip.  All in all, the ferry was simple and much cheaper than the flight.

Getting around 

There are rental cars available at the airport, however it can often be difficult to secure an automatic (most rent from Islay Car Hire). We rented an automatic from National Car Rental at the airport in Inverness where we started our trip, however you can also rent from any major city and bring aboard the ferry. Note: You do not need an international drivers license to drive in Scotland. A valid US driver’s license is sufficient to drive in the UK.

Each of the distilleries will also provide bottles for you to take your drams with you if you’re the driver. We had amazing tour guides at Lagavulin and Bruichladdiach that sent us home with more than a few dram bottles (which we enjoyed on the beach in Port Ellen one evening). 

Alternately, you can hire a driver to shuttle you between distilleries. You can call a car each time you want to move between spots, but most recommended a half or full day hire from Islay Taxis for more reliable transport. It’s a very small island, so there aren’t large cab companies you can call and Uber hasn’t made it there yet!

There’s also a local bus that runs along the main island roads. It operates every day except Sunday.

Lastly, you can skip the vehicle all together. Ardbeg, Laphroaig, and Lagavulin are all walking distance from each other and Port Ellen, and several distilleries are located in the towns you may be staying in.

Our takeaway drams from our Lagavulin tour

Read our 3 Day Islay Itinerary for a convenient way to see Islay’s best distilleries + a few cultural sites.

Visiting the Distilleries 

A distillery tours in Islay are best divided into four segments, each connected to a major city: Port Ellen, Bowmore, Port Charlotte, and Port Askaig. Most tours sell out in advance, so pick your favorites and book online before you go. 

Just outside of Port Ellen are the most famous three Islay distilleries: Ardbeg, Laphroaig, and Lagavulin.  They each offer a variety of different experiences and are all must-do’s – bottling your own at Laphroaig and the Warehouse Tour at Lagavulin were highlights of our trip. There is a walking path between each three if the weather is nice, and a fabulous restaurant at Ardbeg.

Read our 10 Essential Scotland Experiences, including several you can only do on Islay

Bowmore is home only to Bowmore. If you’re short on time, consider skipping this or just popping in the tasting room for a sample.

Next on our “must do” list is Bruichladdich. The tour isn’t particularly special, but the tasting after is amazing.  Islay’s farm distillery, Kilchoman, is northeast of Port Charlotte, as you drive towards Port Askaig.

Nearer to Port Askaig is Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila, and Ardnahoe, Islay’s newest distillery.

Where to Stay

Many people choose to stay in a centrally located hotel or rental cottage and travel to each area on different days. In Bowmore, you can rent a cottage inside the distillery for a unique experience or stay at the Harbour Inn (owned by Bowmore) across the street. 

Other great midway points are the Glenegadale House, near the airport and halfway between Bowmore and Port Ellen, or Islay House in Bridgend, halfway between Bowmore and Port Charlotte. 

Alternately, you can change hotels nightly based on where you’re visiting that day. The best hotel in Port Ellen is the Islay Hotel, which also has a fabulous restaurant and bar that are worth a trip. In Port Charlotte, consider the Port Charlotte Hotel. We opted for this strategy, spending two nights at the Islay Hotel and one at the Harbour Inn in Bowmore.

Airbnbs are also becoming incredibly popular on Islay, especially if you’re traveling with a group.

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Ready to plan your trip?

Look at our 3 Day Islay Itinerary for a convenient plan to catch the highlights of Islay, or catch up on other posts in our Scotland Travel Guide. 

• What to Pack for Scotland
• 10 Essential Whisky Experiences
• Visiting Distilleries in Speyside
• 24 Hour in Oban
• The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Islay